Realms of Tradition Architecture and Culture
Text: Smitha Kamal Photography: Gokul Ramachandran
It may be famous for the historical treasures it holds, but this museum at Thevara is itself an architectural masterpiece. If there is any place that could demon - strate the quintessential features of the traditional Kerala architecture, it would be the Kerala Folklore Theatre and Museum founded by Mr George J Thali - ath, an antique dealer in 2009. This three-storeyed brick red building offers a journey of the rich archi - tectural and cultural heritage through three different schools of Kerala architecture, namely the Malabar style on the ground floor, Kochi style on the first, and the Travancore style on the second floor.
The building stands magnificent adjacent to the Ferry Junction in Thevara. It is secured by an aureate metal gate featuring relief figurines of that represent the various characters in tales of Lord Krishna. The intricately designed facade of the museum reminds you of the entrance of a Thrithala Ksheth - ram, a three-storeyed temple with its gabled roofs displaying ornate wooden carvings, accurate joinery, and an artful assembly of carved wooden columns, pillars, wall panelling, and roof supports. The statues, lamps and two elephants on either side of the en - trance, carved entirely out of black stone accentuates this fact. The colossal black entrance features the Manichithrathazu, a majestic, engraved, ornate lock that was used to secure the doors of the traditional Nalukettu and Ettukettu (four-sided and eight-sided abodes).
According to the authorities, the entrance has been constructed from the remnants of 16th century Tamil temple, while the wooden works have been curated from different parts of Kerala.
As you step barefoot into the Mukhayamam (technically, the entrance of a temple; here, the verandah) the first thing you would sense is the texture and warmth of the elegant wooden flooring. The space impresses you with its sculptural entities of mythological characters carved out from wood and intricately carved stone pillars. Wooden kuthirakal, a structure that encompasses a series of wooden columns that follow the natural curve of the human body resting on the Charupadi (bench) runs around the perimeter of the Mukhayamam.
The Mukhayamam connects to a room that features masks of different deities and characters. These are made from earth and terracotta and are assumed to be used while hunting, performing rituals or as a part of plays. Artefacts displayed includes musical instruments, pottery, temple lamps, statues, swords, masks, string puppets, jewellery, tools, and utensils. The wooden panelling of the rooms adds to the depth of the features of the displayed items. You can also see the ornaments used for the Theyyam art form here. This includes the painted faces, headdress, breastplates, bangles, ankle bells, arm ornaments, sickle, and swords.
The intricacy and the wooden elements continue from the ground to the rich maple coloured stairs in the forms of balusters, railings, graceful curves and fine craftsmanship. The stairs lead to the Kalithattu. This room is constructed following the Cochin school of architecture, a style that blends traditional architecture with Western influences. Some of the elements of this style include sprawling rooms, carved doors, and wooden panelling. Chiseled wooden work made up of sixty frames adorns the ceilings. The carvings and the vintage chandeliers break the monotony of the wooden element of the ceilings. The room displays the costumes and accessories of traditional dance forms like Kathakali, Theyyam, Koodiyaattam, Ottanthullal, and Mohiniyattam.
The Kalithattu leads to the Kanjadalam translated as the lotus petal. This room structurally resembles a temple but is actually a theatre where classical dances like Bharatanatyam, Kathakali, Mohiniyattam, and Kalari martial art performances regularly take place during the evenings. This room on the second floor mesmerises you visually with the indigenous aesthetics that come with modern amenities and culturally with the art performances.
You would be awestruck by the collection of mural paintings that line the lower portion of the roof. They are two hundred and fifty three in number and these paintings are separated from each other by highly detailed wooden columns. There are large ornate pillars placed at the corners of the room. Intricate wooden embellishments, wooden panels that bear carvings, chiselled and carved ceilings, ornate cornices and pillars, and a surprising number of three hundred and thirty three statues gives this room a rich and royal ambience. A golden-hued brass Nilavillaku (lamp) with nine branches forms the focal point of the theatre. A series of antique designed cane chairs are placed in series for the audience.
The museum houses more than four thousand pieces of artefacts, instruments and architectural decors and it took more than twenty years for George to collect them. The museum aims to preserve the culture and heritage of our state. But it does more than that. The museum with the objects provides a medium to understand the lives of people of the past, and that though their lives may have been different but the emotions and wishes of the human minds are the same.
Kerala Folklore Theatre and Museum
Folklore Jn., Thevara, Cochin, Kerala, India
Phone: + 91 484 2665452
Website: www.folkloremuseum.in
Time: 9.30 a.m. to 7.00 p.m
Ticket Rates: Rs.100 for adults and Rs.50 for minors