Devour the Flavours of Ramzan
Story - Keerthy Ramachandran
Kerala is a food lover’s paradise round the year but it wears an irresistibly ‘yummylicious’ look during
the month of Ramzan. Appetizing smells of stacks of muttapathiri, unnakkaya, kozhi pidi and irachi
pathiri among many other delicacies will waft into your nose as you walk into every Muslim house.
The beauty of Ramzan in the God’s own country is, that you will even bump into a non-muslim
wishing “Ramzan Aashamsakal” ( Ramzan wishes) and happily inviting you to his house for an Iftar
treat. Celebrating the Mappila cuisine and venerating the spirit of the festival, during this time most
hotels and restaurants of the state conduct Iftar special food festivals and banquets for everyone who
wants to experience the magnificence of Ramzan.
Since historic times, the Muslim community in the state has played a pivotal role in enriching not just
Kerala’s cultural but so also its culinary heritage as well. It is known that Islam spread in Kerala during
the prophetic period and hence the small state has a long Ramzan tradition. Mass Iftar gatherings are
organized by communities, commercial enterprises and educational institutions and private ones
conducted in houses by the neighbours and relatives. Long sermons and gatherings are conducted
during the day in mosques and many travel to different pilgrim spots, tombs and shrines of Sufi saints
in the state. A sea of humanity pours into bazaars in the mornings to buy new clothes, jewellery and
fresh produce to prepare the Iftar delicacies, to host the perfect treat in the evenings. As the Muslim
community in Kerala actively participates to make every Ramzan a pious and joyful celebration of
brotherhood, faith and tradition, what distinguishingly beckons every traveler to the land of Malabari
cuisine will be the celebratory dishes that are prepared specially during this season of the year.
Kerala Travel Explorer brings to its readers a list of 10 Must-Have Iftar Special Dishes:
1. Pathiri and Irachi Pathiri(Thurki pathiri from Mezban hotel)
A dinner classic in Malabari cooking served with hot meat curry, Pathiris are thin flat
breads made of rice flour. A versatile dish in itself, it can be seen in a number of variants including
chatty pathiri, meen pathiri, neypathiri, kannu vecha pathiri, poricha pathiri etc. The most popular of
them all is the Irachi pathiri, a favourite snack option throughout the year in North Malabar
( Thalashery and Malappuram). Mutton, beef or chicken are stuffed inside the rice crepes and deep
fried in oil to make Irachi pathiris. These samosa-sized snacks are a staple in Iftar menu. A popular
variant in Kozhikode is Thurki pathiri.
2. Unnakkaya or Pazham Nirachathu
Unnakkaya is a sweet muslim recipe that is prepared with plantain, it is crunchy on outside and soft
inside. Grated coconut, sugar, eggs (optional), nuts and raisins are roasted in ghee and stuffed inside
cooked plantain which is then deep fried in oil. This traditional sweet snack will not need any
accompaniments and its taste is sure to light up smiles on the grumpiest of faces.
3. Chicken cutlet
A popular starter item in the Iftar menu, especially among kids, it is prepared with minced chicken and
boiled potatoes. Cooked chicken along with spices is kneaded with mashed potatoes to make small
patties which are then coated in eggs and breadcrumbs for shallow fry. The Kerala style chicken
cutlet will have lots of onions, ginger and pinches of garam masala, chilli powder and turmeric powder
adding to the exquisite flavour.
4. Mutta Surka
These cute little hat-shaped snacks are not just a delight to gorge on but to make as well. Prepared
with eggs and rice flour, it has a really simple recipe and the joy is in seeing the batter in hot oil rise
up to cute little balls in an unniyappam/ paniyaram pan. The pan has several cavities in it and the
mutta surka batter is poured into these. Since no Kerala dish is complete without adding coconut, a
mix of grated coconut, shallots, ginger and curry leaves are added to the batter to make the snack
crunchier.
5. Thari Kanji
A lightly sweetened drink cum porridge, thari kanji is one of the first dishes taken for breaking fast
after dates. Semolina/rava is cooked in diluted milk with sugar and a pinch of cardamom. One of
the main ingredients which infuse an exotic aroma and flavor to the dish is shallots roasted in ghee.
It is said Ramzan treats are incomplete without the thari kanji, which particularly stands out for its
nutritional value.
6. Bread Kai Pola
Here is an oil-free Iftar snack for the health conscious out there. A baked wholesome delicacy made
of bread, milk, eggs and spices, the bread pola could be referred to as a ‘Malabari quiche’. Filling of
chicken and meat could be added to the mix to make Chicken Kai Pola and Irachi Kai Pola. The Pola
is a hot-selling Iftar snack in restaurants and bakeries these days.
7. Muttamala
A typical Malabar dessert served for the newlyweds’ party (Puthiyappila salkaaram) in Muslim families
of Kerala, Muttamala is another Iftar favourite. The traditional sweet is made by separating the yolk
and white of the egg, cooking the former to thread like consistency and dipped in sugar syrup, while
the latter is steamed into pinjathappam (cakes). Both are served hot together and garnished with
cherries.
8. Pidi (Kozhi Pidi Curry from Biverah Hotel)
A wholesome preparation from the Great Malabar coast, Pidi is small rice dumpling served in rich
gravy. In parts of Kochi, a variant called Muthiya is prepared by the Cutchi muslims which has bigger
dumplings. Pidi is yet another versatile Mappila preparation which takes varying forms and flavours in
different parts of the state. While Kozhi pidi prepared with chicken gravy is a hit, its vegetarian
counterpart made with ridge-gourd and drumstick is a lesser known yet scrumptious variant.
9. Kerala Style Mutton Curry
A perfect protein recipe for Ramzan, the Kerala style mutton curry is best had with hot pathiris.
Tender mutton pieces are cooked with a blend of coriander powder, chili powder, poppy seeds,
turmeric powder, ginger garlic paste, cumin seeds and coconut. A special ingredient which brings the
Kerala twist to the mutton curry is kudampuli, a must-add item in the coastal fish curries.
10. Phirni
A sweet concoction of full cream milk, basmati rice and sugar, Phirni is a royal dessert served in
earthen clay pots and garnished with edible silver leaves. The popular dessert in North India was
brought to Kerala by the Cutchi Muslims years back and remains popular till date for its simple yet rich
taste.
A visit to Kerala during the month of Ramzan is sure to leave many wonderful impressions on your
mind. Just as it is absolutely magical to see several simple ingredients blending together to conjure
heavenly cuisine, the holy month of Ramzan in God’s own country is indeed a magical celebration of
mouthwatering flavours, faith and tradition.
Where to Taste The Best of Iftar Treats in Kerala
Kochi
Where: Ifthar Restaurant, Edappally
What to eat: Muttamala, Kilikkoodu, Chattipathiri
Trivandrum
Where: Biverah Hotel and Suites, Kumarapuram
What to eat: Ammachi Kozhi roast, Kozhi pidi curry,
Kabsa rice, Shish Tawook
Kozhikode
Where: Mezban Restaurant, Mavoor Road
What to eat: Thurki Pathiri, Dweep Biriyani, Uloose,
Paal bazhakka
Thrissur
Where: Sulaimani 168, East Fort
What to eat: Aanachavitti, Thaliparamban Dum
Biriyani, Vaini Sulaimani